Journey into North Africa

Marrakech
I headed to Marrakech for a few days in November to soak up some culture, sights and winter sun. Flights from Manchester to Marrakech are currently very reasonable flying with easyJet.
Beware of return time though - earliest flight back is currently 2330.

The currency in Morocco is Dirhams. It is currently not possible to purchase this currency at any foreign exchange bureaus in the UK. We took sterling to change at bureaus within Morocco. There are some in the airport as well as just off the main square (Djemaa el Fna). There are plenty of ATMs too. Take out what you need as you can't bring Dirhams out of the country and you'll be stung converting them back to sterling.

Accomodation
Riad Ajmal

We decided to go for an authentic feel rather than a modern hotel in the Gueliz.
The Riad Ajmal was an excellent little place off the beaten track within the Medina. If you don't know Marrakech I'd recommend arranging a taxi through their website (cost €20). Don't pay the driver though as it will be added to your bill at the end!

The staff in the Riad are extremely helpful and friendly. Beware however that only the owner, Guillame, speaks English. This shouldn't be too much of a problem to those of you who remember your GCSE French!

On arrival you'll be welcomed with a pot of Moroccan tea and sweets to allow you to settle in and take in the pleasant surroundings in the courtyard.



Next you'll be taken up to your room. We chose the "amjad" room, which was beautifully laid out. It had an en-suite with walk-in shower. The shower had a window above it which opens on the terrace. There is a cover for this up on the terrace which you may wish to place over the window!

Upstairs on the terrace are several sunloungers and shaded areas for sitting. In the corner is a traditional hammam. Hammam's involve a full naked body scrub and the riad offers this service starting from around €17 (added to your final bill). We spoke to one English couple who recommended a local Hammam nearby but we weren't confident enough to try it.


I believe the riad also has wi-fi internet access.

Be warned that the Riad accepts cash only (Dirhams or Euros - Euros preferred I think). I wasn't aware of this beforehand which meant a couple of days getting out my maximum amount of daily cash from an ATM.


Taxis
Beware of the taxis - they are con-artists! There are two types - petit and grande. Petit are cheaper and can only journey within the city limits. As many travel books recommend, make sure you get them to turn the meter on. Otherwise a journey which should cost 10 Dirhams can easily cost up to 90! If you're not comfortable doing that sometimes agreeing a price beforehand is the best method.

Sightseeing
The Souks
The place to buy fruit,veg, meat, carpets, rugs, clothes and lanterns. We chose to splash out on a lantern. Again these guys are out to make a quick buck and will give you a wonderful story about the lantern but remember you can get them at stalls throughout the Souks (and indeed in the airport). Their opening gambit is around 600 Dirhams. You should be able to get them down below half that value and if not walk away! (In fact I've probably even been ripped off at that price but never mind :) )



There are some beautiful sites within the city which are well worth a visit.


Saadian tombs
They date back from the time of the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur (1578-1603). The tombs were only recently discovered (in 1917).







El Badi Palace
A palace dating from the same time as the Saadian tombs. Built over a vast space but in ruins now.






Bahia Palace
A palace and set of gardens built in the late 19th century.






Gardens
There are a number of gardens in Marrakech. We chose to go the jardins de Menara which is on the road to the airport. It is surrounded by olive trees which are continually being harvested. Although there is a beautiful reservoir in the centre there isn't actually that much to do (though there is a small cafe with outdoor seating). There is also supposed to be a spectacular fireworks display every Wed-Sun however the ticket booth looked like it had been out of operation for years and when I enquired at the cafe they said it had finished.







Restaurants
Tanjia
Situated just beyond the Djemaa el Fna, a restaurant serving traditional Moroccan cuisine such as tagine and cous-cous. It is beautifully decorated and if you're lucky you'll see a display from the belly dancers. I recommend the lamb tagine! Meals cost in the region of 300 Dirhams.

Dar Moha
The chef here serves Moroccan cuisine with a modern twist. There is a set menu for around 600 Dirhams. Lots of little dishes are served as an appetizer (including mint, pepper, chilli, potato, fish). The starter followed in the form of a pastilla and then the main course (cous-cous and tagine). I chose the foie-gras. A choice of desserts are also offered. Vegetarian option available on request. The setting is stunning - al fresco dining by a pool surrounded by trees. Traditional Moroccan music is also played to set the mode. Situated within walking distance of the Riad Ajmal on rue dar el Bacha.



Bars
KosyBar
The selection of bars in Marrakech is limited mostly to licensed restaurants. Fortunately we came across the Kosybar which served lunch, light snacks, dinner or just drinks if that's what you're after. Sample the excellent Moroccan tea here or simply relax and enjoy the sun, good views and the storks nesting on the walls of the nearby El Badi palace.